Peugeot 205. Manual - part 2

Maintenance - component location  

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1

Rear underside view of a 1360 cc GT model

1 Exhaust front pipe
2 Handbrake cables
3 Heatshield
4 Rear suspension cross-tube
5 Brake hydraulic flexible hose

6 Rear shock absorber
7 Trailing arm
8 Side-member
9 Exhaust rubber mounting
10 Exhaust rear silencer

11 Spare wheel
12 Rear towing eye
13 Torsion bars
14 Fuel tank

1

Introduction

This Chapter is designed to help the home

mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety,
economy, long life and peak performance.

This Chapter contains a master

maintenance schedule, followed by Sections
dealing specifically with each task in the
schedule. Visual checks, adjustments,
component renewal and other helpful items
are included. Refer to the accompanying
illustrations of the engine compartment and
the underside of the vehicle for the locations
of the various components.

Servicing your vehicle in accordance with

the mileage/time maintenance schedule and
the following Sections will provide a planned
maintenance programme, which should result
in a long and reliable service life. This is a
comprehensive plan, so maintaining some
items but not others at the specified service
intervals will not produce the same results.

As you service your vehicle, you will

discover that many of the procedures can -
and should - be grouped together, because of
the particular procedure being performed, or
because of the close proximity of two
otherwise-unrelated components to one
another. For example, if the vehicle is raised
for any reason, the exhaust should be
inspected at the same time as the suspension
and steering components.

The first step of this maintenance

programme is to prepare yourself before the

actual work begins. Read through all the
Sections relevant to the work to be carried
out, then make a list and gather together all
the parts and tools required. If a problem is
encountered, seek advice from a parts
specialist or a dealer service department.

2

Intensive maintenance

1 If, from the time the vehicle is new, the
routine maintenance schedule is followed
closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid
levels and high-wear items, as suggested
throughout this manual, the engine will be
kept in relatively good running condition, and
the need for additional work will be minimised.
2 It is possible that there will be some times
when the engine is running poorly due to the
lack of regular maintenance. This is even more
likely if a used vehicle, which has not received
regular and frequent maintenance checks, is
purchased. In such cases, additional work
may need to be carried out, outside of the
regular maintenance intervals.
3 If engine wear is suspected, a compression
test (refer to Chapter 2A, B or C) will provide
valuable information regarding the overall
performance of the main internal components.
Such a test can be used as a basis to decide
on the extent of the work to be carried out. If,
for example, a compression test indicates
serious internal engine wear, conventional
maintenance as described in this Chapter will
not greatly improve the performance of the

engine, and may prove a waste of time and
money, unless extensive overhaul work
(Chapter 2D) is carried out first.
4 The following series of operations are those
often required to improve the performance of
a generally poor-running engine:

Primary operations

a) Clean, inspect and test the battery (See

“Weekly checks”).

b) Check all the engine-related fluids (See

“Weekly checks”).

c) Check the condition of the auxiliary

drivebelt (Section 9).

d) Inspect the distributor cap, rotor arm and

HT leads (Section 27).

e) Renew the spark plugs (Section 7).
f) Check the condition of the air cleaner

filter element and renew if necessary
(Section 26).

g) Renew the fuel filter - fuel injection

models (Section 32).

h) Check the condition of all hoses, and

check for fluid leaks (Section 6).

5 If the above operations do not prove fully
effective, carry out the following operations:

Secondary operations

All the items listed under “Primary
operations”, plus the following:

a) Check the charging system (Chapter 5A).
b) Check the ignition system (Chapter 5B).
c) Check the fuel system (Chapter 4A, B and

C).

d) Renew the distributor cap and rotor arm

(Section 27).

e) Renew the ignition HT leads (Section 27).

3

Engine oil and filter renewal

1

Note: A suitable square-section wrench may
be required to undo the sump drain plug on
some models. These wrenches can be
obtained from most motor factors or your
Peugeot dealer.
1 Frequent oil changes are the best
preventive maintenance the home mechanic
can give the engine, because ageing oil
becomes diluted and contaminated, which
leads to premature engine wear.
2 Make sure that you have all the necessary
tools before you begin this procedure. You
should also have plenty of rags or
newspapers handy, for mopping up any spills.
The oil should preferably be changed when
the engine is still fully warmed-up to normal
operating temperature, just after a run; warm
oil and sludge will flow out more easily. Take
care, however, not to touch the exhaust or
any other hot parts of the engine when
working under the vehicle. To avoid any
possibility of scalding, and to protect yourself

from possible skin irritants and other harmful
contaminants in used engine oils, it is
advisable to wear gloves when carrying out
this work. Access to the underside of the
vehicle is greatly improved if the vehicle can
be lifted on a hoist, driven onto ramps, or
supported by axle stands. (see “Jacking and
vehicle support”). Whichever method is
chosen, make sure that the vehicle remains
level, or if it is at an angle, that the drain point
is at the lowest point.

3 Position the draining container under the
drain plug, and unscrew the plug. On some
models, a square-section wrench may be
needed to slacken the plug (see illustration).
If possible, try to keep the plug pressed into
the sump while unscrewing it by hand the last
couple of turns (see Haynes Hint).

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Maintenance procedures

3.3  Slackening the sump drain plug with a

square section wrench

Every 6000 miles or 6 months

Keep the drain plug pressed into the
sump while unscrewing it by hand the
last couple of turns. As the plug releases,
move it away sharply so that the stream
of oil issuing from the sump runs into the
container, not up your sleeve!

4 Allow the oil to drain into the container, and
check the condition of the plug’s sealing
washer; renew it if worn or damaged.
5 Allow some time for the old oil to drain,
noting that it may be necessary to reposition
the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle;
when the oil has completely drained, wipe
clean the drain plug and its threads in the
sump and refit the plug, tightening it securely.
6 If the filter is also to be renewed, move the
container into position under the oil filter,
which is located on the front side of the
cylinder block. On XV, XW and XY series
engines, place some rag around the filter
otherwise the oil that runs out as the filter is
unscrewed will make a mess all over the front
of the engine.
7 Using an oil filter removal tool if necessary,
slacken the filter initially, then unscrew it by
hand the rest of the way (see illustration).
Empty the oil in the old filter into the
container.
8 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and
sludge from the filter sealing area on the
engine. Check the old filter to make sure that
the rubber sealing ring hasn’t stuck to the
engine. If it has, carefully remove it.
9 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to
the sealing ring on the new filter, then screw it
into position on the engine. Tighten the filter
firmly by hand only - do not use any tools.
10 Remove the old oil and all tools from
under the car, then lower the car to the
ground (if applicable).
11 Remove the dipstick, then unscrew the oil
filler cap from the rocker/cylinder head cover
or oil filler/breather neck (as applicable). Fill
the engine, using the correct grade and type
of oil (see “Lubricants and fluids, and
capacities”). An oil can spout or funnel may
help to reduce spillage. Pour in half the
specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few
minutes for the oil to fall to the sump.
Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time
until the level is up to the lower mark on the
dipstick. Adding approximately 1.5 litres will
bring the level up to the upper mark on the
dipstick. Refit the filler cap.

12 Start the engine and run it for a few
minutes; check for leaks around the oil filter
seal and the sump drain plug. Note that there
may be a delay of a few seconds before the oil
pressure warning light goes out when the
engine is first started, as the oil circulates
through the engine oil galleries and the new oil
filter (if fitted) before the pressure builds up.
13 Switch off the engine, and wait a few
minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once
more. With the new oil circulated and the filter
completely full, recheck the level on the
dipstick, and add more oil as necessary.
14 Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with
reference to “General repair procedures” in
the preliminary Sections of this manual.

4

Front brake pad check

1

1 Jack up the front of the vehicle, and
support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and
vehicle support”).
2 For better access to the brake calipers,
remove the roadwheels.

3 If any of the pads friction material is worn to
the specified thickness or less, all four pads
must be renewed as a set.
4 For a comprehensive check, the brake pads
should be removed and cleaned. The
operation of the caliper can then also be
checked, and the condition of the brake disc
itself can be fully examined on both sides.
Refer to Chapter 9 for further information.

5

Automatic transmission fluid
level check

1

1 Take the vehicle on a short journey, to
warm the transmission up to normal operating
temperature, then park the vehicle on level
ground. The fluid level is checked using the
dipstick located at the front of the engine
compartment, directly in front of the engine
(see illustration). The dipstick top is brightly-
coloured for easy identification.
2 With the engine idling and the selector lever
in the “P” (Park) position, withdraw the
dipstick from the tube, and wipe all the fluid
from its end with a clean rag or paper towel.
Insert the clean dipstick back into the tube as
far as it will go, then withdraw it once more.
Note the fluid level on the end of the dipstick;
it should be between the upper and lower
marks (see illustration).
3 If topping-up is necessary, add the required
quantity of the specified fluid to the transmission
via the dipstick tube. Use a funnel with a fine-
mesh gauze, to avoid spillage, and to ensure
that no foreign matter enters the transmission.
Note: Never overfill the transmission so that the
fluid level is above the upper mark.
4 After topping-up, take the vehicle on a short
run to distribute the fresh fluid, then recheck
the level again, topping-up if necessary.
5 Always maintain the level between the two
dipstick marks. If the level is allowed to fall
below the lower mark, fluid starvation may
result, which could lead to severe
transmission damage.
6 Frequent need for topping-up indicates that
there is a leak, which should be found and
corrected before it becomes serious.

Every 6000 miles or 6 months  

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1

5.2  Automatic fluid dipstick lower (a) and

upper (b) fluid level markings

For a quick check, the
thickness of the friction
material on each brake pad
can be measured through

the aperture in the caliper body

3.7  Using an oil filter removal tool to slacken the filter

5.1  Withdrawing the automatic transmission fluid dipstick

6

Underbonnet check for fluid
leaks and hose condition

1

Warning: Renewal of any air
conditioning hoses (where
fitted) must be left to a dealer
service department or air

conditioning specialist who has the
equipment to depressurise the system
safely. Never remove air conditioning
components or hoses until the system has
been depressurised.

General

1 High temperatures in the engine
compartment can cause the deterioration of
the rubber and plastic hoses used for engine,
accessory and emission systems operation.
Periodic inspection should be made for cracks,
loose clamps, material hardening and leaks.
2 Carefully check the large top and bottom
radiator hoses, along with the other smaller-
diameter cooling system hoses and metal
pipes; do not forget the heater hoses/pipes
which run from the engine to the bulkhead.
Inspect each hose along its entire length,
replacing any that are cracked, swollen or
shows signs of deterioration. Cracks may
become more apparent if the hose is
squeezed 

(see Haynes Hint).

3 Make sure that all hose connections are
tight. If the spring clamps that are used to
secure some of the hoses appear to be
slackening, they should be renewed to
prevent the possibility of leaks.
4 Some other hoses are secured to their
fittings with screw type clips. Where screw
type clips are used, check to be sure they
haven’t slackened, allowing the hose to leak.
If clamps or screw type clips aren’t used,
make sure the hose has not expanded and/or
hardened where it slips over the fitting,
allowing it to leak.
5 Check all fluid reservoirs, filler caps, drain
plugs and fittings etc, looking for any signs of
leakage of oil, transmission and/or brake
hydraulic fluid, coolant and power steering
fluid. If the vehicle is regularly parked in the
same place, close inspection of the ground
underneath will soon show any leaks; ignore
the puddle of water which will be left if the air
conditioning system is in use. As soon as a
leak is detected, its source must be traced
and rectified. Where oil has been leaking for
some time, it is usually necessary to use a
steam cleaner, pressure washer or similar, to
clean away the accumulated dirt, so that the
exact source of the leak can be identified.

Vacuum hoses

6 It’s quite common for vacuum hoses,
especially those in the emissions system, to
be numbered or colour-coded, or to be
identified by coloured stripes moulded into
them. Various systems require hoses with
different wall thicknesses, collapse resistance

and temperature resistance. When renewing
hoses, be sure the new ones are made of the
same material.
7 Often the only effective way to check a
hose is to remove it completely from the
vehicle. If more than one hose is removed, be
sure to label the hoses and fittings to ensure
correct installation.
8 When checking vacuum hoses, be sure to
include any plastic T-fittings in the check.
Inspect the fittings for cracks, and check the
hose where it fits over the fitting for distortion,
which could cause leakage.
9 A small piece of vacuum hose can be used
as a stethoscope to detect vacuum leaks.
Hold one end of the hose to your ear, and
probe around vacuum hoses and fittings,
listening for the “hissing” sound characteristic
of a vacuum leak.

Warning: When probing with the
vacuum hose stethoscope, be
very careful not to come into
contact with moving engine

components such as the auxiliary drivebelt,
radiator electric cooling fan, etc.

Fuel hoses

Warning: Before carrying out the
following operation, refer to the
precautions given in “Safety
first!” at the beginning of this

manual, and follow them implicitly. Petrol
is a highly dangerous and volatile liquid,
and the precautions necessary when
handling it cannot be overstressed.
10 Check all fuel hoses for deterioration and
chafing. Check especially for cracks in areas
where the hose bends, and also just before
fittings, such as where a hose attaches to the
carburettor or fuel rail.
11 High-quality fuel line, usually identified by
the word “Fluoroelastomer” printed on the
hose, should be used for fuel line renewal.
Never, under any circumstances, use
unreinforced vacuum line, clear plastic tubing
or water hose for fuel lines.
12 Spring-type clamps are commonly used
on fuel lines. These clamps often lose their
tension over a period of time, and can be
“sprung” during removal. Replace all spring-

type clamps with screw clips whenever a hose
is replaced.

Metal lines

13 Sections of metal piping are often used
for fuel line between the fuel filter and the
engine. Check carefully to be sure the piping
has not been bent or crimped, and that cracks
have not started in the line.
14 If a section of metal fuel line must be
renewed, only seamless steel piping should
be used, since copper and aluminium piping
don’t have the strength necessary to
withstand normal engine vibration.
15 Check the metal brake lines where they
enter the master cylinder and ABS hydraulic
unit for cracks in the lines or loose fittings.
Any sign of brake fluid leakage calls for an
immediate and thorough inspection of the
brake system.

7

Spark plug renewal

2

1 The correct functioning of the spark plugs is
vital for the correct running and efficiency of
the engine. It is essential that the plugs fitted
are appropriate for the engine (a suitable type
is specified at the beginning of this Chapter). If
this type is used and the engine is in good
condition, the spark plugs should not need
attention between scheduled replacement
intervals. Spark plug cleaning is rarely
necessary, and should not be attempted unless
specialised equipment is available, as damage
can easily be caused to the firing ends.
2 If the marks on the original-equipment spark
plug (HT) leads cannot be seen, mark the leads
“1” to “4”, to correspond to the cylinder the lead
serves (No 1 cylinder is at the transmission end
of the engine). Pull the leads from the plugs by
gripping the end fitting, not the lead, otherwise
the lead connection may be fractured.
3 It is advisable to remove the dirt from the
spark plug recesses using a clean brush,
vacuum cleaner or compressed air before
removing the plugs, to prevent dirt dropping
into the cylinders.
4 Unscrew the plugs using a spark plug
spanner, suitable box spanner or a deep
socket and extension bar (see illustration).

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Every 12 000 miles or 12 months

7.4  Tools required for spark plug removal,

gap adjustment and refitting

A leak in the cooling system will usually
show up as white or rust-coloured
deposits on the area adjoining the leak