Ford Fiesta (1989-1995). Instruction - part 51

1

General information

The bodyshell and underframe on all

models is of all-steel welded construction,
incorporating progressive crumple zones at
the front and rear, and a rigid centre safety
cell. The body styles available include three-
door, five-door, Van and Courier
configurations.

A multi-stage anti-corrosion process is

applied to all new vehicles. This includes zinc
phosphating on some panels, the injection of
wax into boxed sections, and a wax and PVC
coating applied to the underbody for its
protection.

Inertia reel seat belts are fitted to all

models, and from the 1994 model year
onwards, the front seat belt stalks are
mounted on automatic mechanical tensioners
(also known as “grabbers”). In the event of a
serious front impact, a spring mass sensor
releases a coil spring which pulls the stalk
buckle downwards and tensions the seat belt.
It is not possible to reset the tensioner once
fired, and it must therefore be renewed.

Central locking is a standard or optional

fitment on all models. Where double-locking is
also fitted, the lock mechanism is
disconnected (when the system is in use) from
the interior door handles, making it impossible
to open any of the doors or the tailgate from
inside the vehicle. This means that, even if a
thief should break a side window, it will not be
possible to open the door using the interior
handle.

2

Maintenance -
bodywork and underframe

1

The general condition of a vehicle’s

bodywork is the one thing that significantly
affects its value. Maintenance is easy, but
needs to be regular. Neglect, particularly after
minor damage, can lead quickly to further
deterioration and costly repair bills. It is
important also to keep watch on those parts
of the vehicle not immediately visible, for
instance the underside, inside all the wheel
arches, and the lower part of the engine
compartment.

The basic maintenance routine for the

bodywork is washing - preferably with a lot of
water, from a hose. This will remove all the
loose solids which may have stuck to the
vehicle. It is important to flush these off in
such a way as to prevent grit from scratching
the finish. The wheel arches and underframe
need washing in the same way, to remove any
accumulated mud, which will retain moisture
and tend to encourage rust. Oddly enough,
the best time to clean the underframe and
wheel arches is in wet weather, when the mud
is thoroughly wet and soft. In very wet

weather, the underframe is usually cleaned of
large accumulations automatically, and this is
a good time for inspection.

Periodically, except on vehicles with a wax-

based underbody protective coating, it is a
good idea to have the whole of the
underframe of the vehicle steam-cleaned,
engine compartment included, so that a
thorough inspection can be carried out to see
what minor repairs and renovations are
necessary. Steam-cleaning is available at
many garages, and is necessary for the
removal of the accumulation of oily grime,
which sometimes is allowed to become thick
in certain areas. If steam-cleaning facilities are
not available, there are some excellent grease
solvents available which can be brush-
applied; the dirt can then be simply hosed off.
Note that these methods should not be used
on vehicles with wax-based underbody
protective coating, or the coating will be
removed. Such vehicles should be inspected
annually, preferably just prior to Winter, when
the underbody should be washed down, and
any damage to the wax coating repaired.
Ideally, a completely fresh coat should be
applied. It would also be worth considering
the use of such wax-based protection for
injection into door panels, sills, box sections,
etc, as an additional safeguard against rust
damage, where such protection is not
provided by the vehicle manufacturer.

After washing paintwork, wipe off with a

chamois leather to give an unspotted clear
finish. A coat of clear protective wax polish
will give added protection against chemical
pollutants in the air. If the paintwork sheen
has dulled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polisher
combination to restore the brilliance of the
shine. This requires a little effort, but such
dulling is usually caused because regular
washing has been neglected. Care needs to
be taken with metallic paintwork, as special
non-abrasive cleaner/polisher is required to
avoid damage to the finish. Always check that
the door and ventilator opening drain holes
and pipes are completely clear, so that water
can be drained out. Brightwork should be
treated in the same way as paintwork.
Windscreens and windows can be kept clear
of the smeary film which often appears, by the
use of proprietary glass cleaner. Never use
any form of wax or other body or chromium
polish on glass.

3

Maintenance -
upholstery and carpets

1

Mats and carpets should be brushed or

vacuum-cleaned regularly, to keep them free
of grit. If they are badly stained, remove them
from the vehicle for scrubbing or sponging,
and make quite sure they are dry before
refitting. Seats and interior trim panels can be
kept clean by wiping with a damp cloth. If they
do become stained (which can be more

apparent on light-coloured upholstery), use a
little liquid detergent and a soft nail brush to
scour the grime out of the grain of the
material. Do not forget to keep the headlining
clean in the same way as the upholstery.
When using liquid cleaners inside the vehicle,
do not over-wet the surfaces being cleaned.
Excessive damp could get into the seams and
padded interior, causing stains, offensive
odours or even rot.
Note:  If the inside of the vehicle gets wet
accidentally, it is worthwhile taking some
trouble to dry it out properly, particularly
where carpets are involved. 

Warning: Do not leave oil or
electric heaters inside the
vehicle for this purpose.

4

Minor body damage -
repair

3

Repairs of minor scratches in
bodywork

If the scratch is very superficial, and does

not penetrate to the metal of the bodywork,
repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area of
the scratch with a paintwork renovator, or a
very fine cutting paste, to remove loose paint
from the scratch, and to clear the surrounding
bodywork of wax polish. Rinse the area with
clean water.

Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using a

fine paint brush; continue to apply fine layers
of paint until the surface of the paint in the
scratch is level with the surrounding
paintwork. Allow the new paint at least two
weeks to harden, then blend it into the
surrounding paintwork by rubbing the scratch
area with a paintwork renovator or a very fine
cutting paste. Finally, apply wax polish.

Where the scratch has penetrated right

through to the metal of the bodywork, causing
the metal to rust, a different repair technique
is required. Remove any loose rust from the
bottom of the scratch with a penknife, then
apply rust-inhibiting paint to prevent the
formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber
or nylon applicator, fill the scratch with
bodystopper paste. If required, this paste can
be mixed with cellulose thinners to provide a
very thin paste which is ideal for filling narrow
scratches. Before the stopper-paste in the
scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth
cotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip the
finger in cellulose thinners, and quickly sweep
it across the surface of the stopper-paste in
the scratch; this will ensure that the surface 
of the stopper-paste is slightly hollowed. The
scratch can now be painted over as described
earlier in this Section.

Repairs of dents in bodywork

When deep denting of the vehicle’s

bodywork has taken place, the first task is to
pull the dent out, until the affected bodywork

11•2 Bodywork and fittings

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

almost attains its original shape. There is little
point in trying to restore the original shape
completely, as the metal in the damaged area
will have stretched on impact, and cannot be
reshaped fully to its original contour. It is
better to bring the level of the dent up to a
point which is about 3 mm below the level of
the surrounding bodywork. In cases where the
dent is very shallow anyway, it is not worth
trying to pull it out at all. If the underside of the
dent is accessible, it can be hammered out
gently from behind, using a mallet with a
wooden or plastic head. Whilst doing this,
hold a suitable block of wood firmly against
the outside of the panel, to absorb the impact
from the hammer blows and thus prevent a
large area of the bodywork from being
“belled-out”.

Should the dent be in a section of the

bodywork which has a double skin, or some
other factor making it inaccessible from
behind, a different technique is called for. Drill
several small holes through the metal inside
the area - particularly in the deeper section.
Then screw long self-tapping screws into the
holes, just sufficiently for them to gain a good
purchase in the metal. Now the dent can be
pulled out by pulling on the protruding heads
of the screws with a pair of pliers.

The next stage of the repair is the removal

of the paint from the damaged area, and from
an inch or so of the surrounding “sound”
bodywork. This is accomplished most easily
by using a wire brush or abrasive pad on a
power drill, although it can be done just as
effectively by hand, using sheets of abrasive
paper. To complete the preparation for filling,
score the surface of the bare metal with a
screwdriver or the tang of a file, or
alternatively, drill small holes in the affected
area. This will provide a really good “key” for
the filler paste.

To complete the repair, see the Section on

filling and respraying.

Repairs of rust holes or gashes
in bodywork

Remove all paint from the affected area,

and from an inch or so of the surrounding
“sound” bodywork, using an abrasive pad or a
wire brush on a power drill. If these are not
available, a few sheets of abrasive paper will
do the job most effectively. With the paint
removed, you will be able to judge the severity
of the corrosion, and therefore decide
whether to renew the whole panel (if this is
possible) or to repair the affected area. New
body panels are not as expensive as most
people think, and it is often quicker and more
satisfactory to fit a new panel than to attempt
to repair large areas of corrosion.

Remove all fittings from the affected area,

except those which will act as a guide to the
original shape of the damaged bodywork (eg
headlight shells etc). Then, using tin snips or a
hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and
any other metal badly affected by corrosion.
Hammer the edges of the hole inwards, in

order to create a slight depression for the filler
paste.

Wire-brush the affected area to remove the

powdery rust from the surface of the
remaining metal. Paint the affected area with
rust-inhibiting paint, if the back of the rusted
area is accessible, treat this also.

Before filling can take place, it will be

necessary to block the hole in some way. This
can be achieved by the use of aluminium or
plastic mesh, or aluminium tape.

Aluminium or plastic mesh, or glass-fibre

matting, is probably the best material to use
for a large hole. Cut a piece to the
approximate size and shape of the hole to be
filled, then position it in the hole so that its
edges are below the level of the surrounding
bodywork. It can be retained in position by
several blobs of filler paste around its
periphery.

Aluminium tape should be used for small or

very narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll, trim
it to the approximate size and shape required,
then pull off the backing paper (if used) and
stick the tape over the hole; it can be
overlapped if the thickness of one piece is
insufficient. Burnish down the edges of the
tape with the handle of a screwdriver or
similar, to ensure that the tape is securely
attached to the metal underneath.

Bodywork repairs - filling and
respraying

Before using this Section, see the Sections

on dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gash
repairs.

Many types of bodyfiller are available, but

generally speaking, those proprietary kits
which contain a tin of filler paste and a tube of
resin hardener are best for this type of repair.
A wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will
be found invaluable for imparting a smooth
and well-contoured finish to the surface of the
filler.

Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card

or board - measure the hardener carefully
(follow the maker’s instructions on the pack),
otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or too
slowly. Using the applicator, apply the filler
paste to the prepared area; draw the
applicator across the surface of the filler to
achieve the correct contour and to level the
surface. As soon as a contour that
approximates to the correct one is achieved,
stop working the paste - if you carry on too
long, the paste will become sticky and begin
to “pick-up” on the applicator. Continue to
add thin layers of filler paste at 20-minute
intervals, until the level of the filler is just
proud of the surrounding bodywork.

Once the filler has hardened, the excess

can be removed using a metal plane or file.
From then on, progressively-finer grades of
abrasive paper should be used, starting with a
40-grade production paper, and finishing with
a 400-grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrap
the abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork,
or wooden block - otherwise the surface of

the filler will not be completely flat. During the
smoothing of the filler surface, the wet-and-
dry paper should be periodically rinsed in
water. This will ensure that a very smooth
finish is imparted to the filler at the final stage.

At this stage, the “dent” should be

surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in
turn should be encircled by the finely
“feathered” edge of the good paintwork.
Rinse the repair area with clean water, until all
of the dust produced by the rubbing-down
operation has gone.

Spray the whole area with a light coat of

primer - this will show up any imperfections in
the surface of the filler. Repair these
imperfections with fresh filler paste or
bodystopper, and once more smooth the
surface with abrasive paper. Repeat this
spray-and-repair procedure until you are
satisfied that the surface of the filler, and the
feathered edge of the paintwork, are perfect.
Clean the repair area with clean water, and
allow to dry fully. 

The repair area is now ready for final

spraying. Paint spraying must be carried out
in a warm, dry, windless and dust-free
atmosphere. This condition can be created
artificially if you have access to a large indoor
working area, but if you are forced to work in
the open, you will have to pick your day very
carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing
the floor in the work area with water will help
to settle the dust which would otherwise be in
the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined
to one body panel, mask off the surrounding
panels; this will help to minimise the effects of
a slight mis-match in paint colours. Bodywork
fittings (eg chrome strips, door handles etc)
will also need to be masked off. Use genuine
masking tape, and several thicknesses of
newspaper, for the masking operations.

Before commencing to spray, agitate the

aerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area
(an old tin, or similar) until the technique is
mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick
coat of primer; the thickness should be built
up using several thin layers of paint, rather
than one thick one. Using 400-grade wet-and-
dry paper, rub down the surface of the primer
until it is really smooth. While doing this, the
work area should be thoroughly doused with
water, and the wet-and-dry paper periodically
rinsed in water. Allow to dry before spraying
on more paint.

Spray on the top coat, again building up the

thickness by using several thin layers of paint.
Start spraying at one edge of the repair area,
and then, using a side-to-side motion, work
until the whole repair area and about 2 inches
of the surrounding original paintwork is
covered. Remove all masking material 10 to

Bodywork and fittings 11•3

11

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

If bodystopper is used, it can
be mixed with cellulose
thinners to form a really thin
paste which is ideal for
filling small holes.

7.3a  Removing the bonnet release latch

15 minutes after spraying on the final coat of
paint.

Allow the new paint at least two weeks to

harden, then, using a paintwork renovator, or
a very fine cutting paste, blend the edges of
the paint into the existing paintwork. Finally,
apply wax polish.

Plastic components

With the use of more and more plastic body

components by the vehicle manufacturers (eg
bumpers. spoilers, and in some cases major
body panels), rectification of more serious
damage to such items has become a matter
of either entrusting repair work to a specialist
in this field, or renewing complete
components. Repair of such damage by the
DIY owner is not really feasible, owing to the
cost of the equipment and materials required
for effecting such repairs. The basic technique
involves making a groove along the line of the
crack in the plastic, using a rotary burr in a
power drill. The damaged part is then welded
back together, using a hot-air gun to heat up
and fuse a plastic filler rod into the groove.
Any excess plastic is then removed, and the
area rubbed down to a smooth finish. It is
important that a filler rod of the correct plastic
is used, as body components can be made of
a variety of different types (eg polycarbonate,
ABS, polypropylene).

Damage of a less serious nature (abrasions,

minor cracks etc) can be repaired by the DIY
owner using a two-part epoxy filler repair
material. Once mixed in equal proportions,
this is used in similar fashion to the bodywork
filler used on metal panels. The filler is usually
cured in twenty to thirty minutes, ready for
sanding and painting.

If the owner is renewing a complete

component himself, or if he has repaired it
with epoxy filler, he will be left with the
problem of finding a suitable paint for finishing
which is compatible with the type of plastic
used. At one time, the use of a universal paint
was not possible, owing to the complex range
of plastics encountered in body component
applications. Standard paints, generally
speaking, will not bond to plastic or rubber
satisfactorily. However, it is now possible to
obtain a plastic body parts finishing kit which
consists of a pre-primer treatment, a primer

and coloured top coat. Full instructions are
normally supplied with a kit, but basically, the
method of use is to first apply the pre-primer
to the component concerned, and allow it to
dry for up to 30 minutes. Then the primer is
applied, and left to dry for about an hour
before finally applying the special-coloured
top coat. The result is a correctly-coloured
component, where the paint will flex with the
plastic or rubber, a property that standard
paint does not normally possess.

5

Major body damage -
repair

5

Where serious damage has occurred, or

large areas need renewal due to neglect, it
means that complete new panels will need
welding-in, and this is best left to
professionals. If the damage is due to impact,
it will also be necessary to check completely
the alignment of the bodyshell, and this can
only be carried out accurately by a Ford
dealer, using special jigs. If the body is left
misaligned, it is primarily dangerous, as the
car will not handle properly; secondly, uneven
stresses will be imposed on the steering,
suspension and possibly transmission,
causing abnormal wear, or complete failure,
particularly to such items as the tyres.

6

Bonnet - removal, 
refitting and adjustment

1

Removal

1 Raise the bonnet and support it on its stay.
2 Using a felt tip marker pen or similar, mark
around the hinge positions on the bonnet.
3 Cut the windscreen washer jet hose in the
engine compartment, or release it from its one-
way valve (if already fitted), then release the hose
from the bonnet hinge clip (see illustration).
4 With the aid of an assistant, support the
bonnet assembly and remove the four bolts
securing it to its hinges. Remove the bonnet
assembly, taking care to disengage the stay
before the bonnet is moved.

Refitting and adjustment

5 To refit, first align the marks made on the
bonnet with the hinges, then refit and fully
tighten the four securing bolts. Support the
bonnet on its stay.
6 Refit the windscreen washer jet hose into
the bonnet hinge clip, and join it up using a
one-way (non-return) valve, having ensured
correct routing. Ensure that the valve is
installed the correct way round, allowing flow
to the jets but resisting return flow back to the
reservoir.
7 Close the bonnet and ensure that there is
an equal gap at each side, between the
bonnet and the wings, and that it sits flush in
relation to its surrounding panels.
8 The bonnet should close smoothly and
positively with no excessive pressure being
applied. If this is not the case, adjustment will
be necessary.
9 To adjust the bonnet closure, adjustable
bump stops are fitted to the closure panel
(see illustration). These may be raised or
lowered by screwing in or out, as necessary.
The bonnet latch may also be adjusted, as
required, and this is covered in Section 8 of
this Chapter.

7

Bonnet release mechanism -
removal and refitting

1

Removal

1 Remove the screws securing the lower
steering column shroud to its location and,
where applicable, detach the choke warning
light switch/pull control assembly, from it.
2 Operate the bonnet release lever then raise
and support the bonnet. If the release cable is
broken, it will be necessary to detach the
latch from its body location by undoing the
three latch retaining screws through the gap
between the leading edge of the bonnet and
the radiator grille slot.
3 With the bonnet open, remove the three
screws securing the latch to the body.
Disengage the release cable from the latch
(see illustrations).

11•4 Bodywork and fittings

6.9  Altering the setting of a bonnet closure

bump stop

6.3  Windscreen washer jet hose in engine

compartment

A  Hose located to bonnet hinge clip
B  Position of cut

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

4 Pull the latch end of the cable into the
engine compartment, noting cable routing and
clips fitted. Remove the cable from its clips.
5 Detach the cable from its release lever on
the steering column, by aligning the cable
core with the slot on the release lever and
withdrawing the end fixing. Detach the cable
from its outer core abutment on the steering
column lock housing.
6 Unclip the cable from its pedal box
location, then detach the bulkhead grommet
and pass the cable through into the engine
compartment. Withdraw the cable from the
vehicle.
7 The release lever on the steering column
may be removed, if required, by unhooking
the spring from its retaining arms, then
disengaging its retaining arms from the
steering column lock housing.

Refitting

8 Refit the release lever, if removed, by
reversing the method of removal.
9 To install the release cable, first pass the
latch end of the cable down the right-hand
side of the steering column, through its
bulkhead location, and out into the engine
compartment.
10 Fit the cable to its clip on the pedal box
assembly, then reconnect the cable to the
release lever and the steering column lock
housing abutment by reversing the method of
removal.
11 Where applicable, refit the choke warning
light switch/pull control assembly, to the lower

steering column shroud, by reversing the
method of removal. Refit the shroud.
12 Seat the release cable grommet into the
bulkhead.
13 Route and secure the release cable in the
engine compartment.
14 Reconnect the release cable to the latch,
then refit the latch to the body, setting the
latch at its maximum height position, and
tightening only the bottom retaining screw.
15 Adjust the latch for flush bonnet closure in
accordance with Section 8.

8

Bonnet latch - adjustment

1

1 To adjust the bonnet latch, remove the two
upper latch retaining screws, then with the
latch raised to its maximum height position
and secured with the lower retaining screw,
close the bonnet.
2 Slacken the lower latch retaining screw,
through the gap between the leading edge of
the bonnet and the radiator grille slot, then 
set the bonnet so it sits flush with its
surrounding panels - it may be necessary to
adjust the height of the bump stops (see
Section 6) if they have been moved in any
way, or if fitting a new bonnet.
3 With the desired bonnet closure obtained,
fully tighten the lower latch retaining screw,
then open the bonnet and refit the two upper
latch retaining screws, tightening to the
specified torque.

9

Body adhesive emblems -
renewal

1

1 Using a length of strong thin diameter cord
(fishing line is ideal), break the adhesive bond
between the emblem and the panel.
2 Thoroughly clean all traces of the old
adhesive from the emblem location, using
methylated spirit, taking all normal safety
precautions. Allow the emblem location to
dry.
3 Gently heat the new emblem until it is warm
to the touch.

4 Peel the protective backing paper from the
emblem then, taking care not to touch the
adhesive, position the emblem on the panel.
Maintain hand pressure evenly for at least
thirty seconds to ensure a good bond.

10 Body trim mouldings -

removal and refitting

1

Roof drip rail moulding (all
models except Courier)

Removal

1 Remove the drip rail moulding by gently
raising the forward end from its retaining
flange, taking care not to bend or kink it, then
carefully pull it off the retaining flange (see
illustration).

Refitting

2 To refit the drip rail moulding, first align the
rear of the moulding to the roof panel edge by
the tailgate, then, using the flat palm of the
hand, gently tap the moulding down.
3 If fitting the Ford roof rack, the drip rail
mouldings on both sides must be removed
and replaced by a ten-piece moulding kit,
available from Ford dealerships.

Roof drip rail moulding (Courier
models)

Removal

4 These are released by lifting and gripping
the moulding’s inboard edge, then by 
rotating the whole length of the moulding
towards the outside of the vehicle to release it
from its outboard lip.

Refitting

5 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure; ensure that the moulding’s
outboard edge is seated securely in its lip
before pressing the inboard edge firmly into
place.

Door side moulding

Removal

6 Apply masking tape, as an alignment guide
and to protect the paintwork, just above and
just below the moulding to be renewed.
7 Using a length of strong thin diameter cord
(fishing line is ideal), break the bond between
the moulding and the panel, and remove the
moulding (see illustration).

Refitting

8 Thoroughly clean the moulding location of
any trace of old adhesive, using methylated
spirit, taking all normal safety precautions.
Allow the moulding location to dry.
9 Continue to proceed using a similar
technique to that described in Section 9
taking care to align the moulding correctly.
10 To improve the adhesive bond, apply
pressure over the whole length of the
moulding using a roller.
11 Remove the masking tape carefully.

Bodywork and fittings 11•5

7.3b  Bonnet release cable attachments at

the latch

A Outer cable attachment
B Inner cable attachment

10.7  Removing a door side moulding

A Masking tape

C Nylon cord (fishing line)

B Moulding

10.1  Removing a roof drip rail moulding

11

1595Ford Fiesta Remake