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Ford Fiesta (1989-1995). Instruction - part 42

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Front brakes

Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Solid or ventilated disc, with single-piston sliding calipers

Disc diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

240.0 mm

Disc thickness:

Solid disc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10.0 mm

Ventilated disc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

20.0 mm

Minimum disc thickness:

Solid disc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8.0 mm

Ventilated disc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

18.0 mm

Maximum disc run-out (disc fitted) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.1 mm

Minimum brake pad thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1.5 mm

Rear brakes

Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Drum with leading and trailing shoes and automatic adjusters

Nominal drum diameter:

All except XR2i and ABS equipped models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

180 mm

XR2i and ABS equipped models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

203 mm

Maximum drum diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1.0 mm above nominal diameter

Wheel cylinder bore diameter:

All except XR2i and ABS equipped models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

17.5 mm

XR2i models with conventional braking system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

19.0 mm

All ABS equipped models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

22.0 mm

Minimum brake shoe lining thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1.0 mm

Chapter 9
Braking system

ABS modulator drivebelt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Anti-lock braking system (ABS) - general information  . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Anti-lock braking system (ABS) components - removal and refitting  . . 24
Brake check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Brake fluid level check  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See “Weekly Checks”
Brake fluid renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Brake pedal - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Brake pedal-to-servo cross-link - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . 11
Brake pressure control valves - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Front brake caliper - removal, overhaul and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . .

Front brake disc - inspection, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Front brake pads - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Handbrake adjustment  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Handbrake lever - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Handbrake primary cable - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Handbrake rear cable - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Hydraulic pipes and hoses - renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Hydraulic system - bleeding (anti-lock braking system)  . . . . . . . . . . 14
Hydraulic system - bleeding (conventional braking system) . . . . . . . 13
Light-laden valve (Courier models) - adjustment  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Light-laden valve (Courier models) - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . 21
Load-apportioning valve (ABS models) - adjustment  . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Load-apportioning valve (ABS models) - removal and refitting  . . . . 26
Master cylinder - removal, overhaul and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Rear brake backplate - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Rear brake drum - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Rear brake shoes - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Rear wheel cylinder - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . .

Vacuum servo unit - testing, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Vacuum servo unit vacuum hose and non-return valve - removal,

testing and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

9•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional

Degrees of difficulty

General information

The braking system is of the diagonally

split, dual-circuit hydraulic type, with servo
assistance to the front disc brakes and rear
drum brakes. The dual-circuit hydraulic
system is a safety feature - in the event of a
malfunction somewhere in one of the
hydraulic circuits, the other circuit continues
to operate, providing at least some braking
effort. Under normal circumstances, both
brake circuits operate in unison, to provide
efficient braking.

The master cylinder (and the vacuum servo

unit to which it is bolted) is located on the left-
hand side of the bulkhead in the engine
compartment. On all right-hand drive variants,
they are jointly operated via a transverse
cross-link from the brake pedal.

Brake pressure control valves are fitted in-

line to each rear brake circuit, their function
being to regulate the braking force available at
each rear wheel, reducing the possibility of
the rear wheels locking up under heavy
braking. Courier models also have a “light-
laden” valve incorporated into the rear braking
circuits for the same reason.

The front brake discs are of the ventilated

type on XR2i and ABS-equipped models, with
solid discs fitted on all other models. The front
brake calipers are of single sliding piston type
mounted on the front spindle carriers each
side.

Each rear brake shoe assembly is operated

by a twin-piston wheel cylinder. The leading
brake shoe in each brake unit has a thicker
lining than the trailing shoe, so that they wear
proportionally. To take up the brake
adjustment as the linings wear, each rear
brake assembly incorporates an automatic
adjuster mechanism.

The cable-operated handbrake acts on

both rear brakes, to provide an independent
means of brake operation.

An anti-lock braking system (ABS) is

available on some models, and has many of
the components in common with the

conventional braking system. Further details
on ABS can be found later in this Chapter.
Note: When servicing any part of the system,
work carefully and methodically; also observe
scrupulous cleanliness when overhauling any
part of the hydraulic system. Always renew
components (in axle sets, where applicable) if
in doubt about their condition, and use only
genuine Ford replacement parts, or at least
those of known good quality. Note the
warnings given in “Safety first” and at relevant
points in this Chapter concerning the dangers
of asbestos dust and hydraulic fluid.

Front brake pads - renewal

Warning: Disc brake pads MUST
be renewed on both front
wheels at the same time -
NEVER renew the pads on only

one wheel, as uneven braking may result.
The front brake calipers will be of Bendix
or Teves manufacture, and if they or their
component parts require renewal, ensure
that the correct type is fitted. Dust created
by wear of the pads may contain asbestos,
which is a health hazard. Never blow it out
with compressed air, and do not inhale any
of it. DO NOT use petroleum-based
solvents to clean brake parts - use brake
cleaner or methylated spirit only. DO NOT

allow any brake fluid, oil or grease to
contact the brake pads or disc. Also refer
to the warning in Section 13 concerning
the dangers of hydraulic fluid.
1 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove
the front roadwheels.
2 Hold the caliper support spring with a pair
of pliers, and prise it out of its location in the
caliper housing using a screwdriver (see
illustration).
3 Prise free the blanking plugs from the
caliper upper and lower mounting bolts.
Unscrew the bolts, then withdraw the caliper
from the anchor bracket (see illustrations).
Suitably support the caliper to avoid straining
the brake hose.

Torque wrench settings

lbf ft

Master cylinder to servo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

20 to 25

15 to 18

Servo to mounting bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

35 to 45

26 to 33

Pedal-to-servo cross-link brackets to bulkhead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

20 to 25

15 to 18

Rear drum/hub to axle flange bolts* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

56 to 76

41 to 56

Caliper-to-spindle carrier (anchor bracket) bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

50 to 66

37 to 49

Caliper piston housing retaining bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

20 to 25

15 to 18

Load-apportioning valves to bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

20 to 25

15 to 18

Load-apportioning valve bracket to vehicle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

21 to 28

15 to 21

Load-apportioning valve adjustment screw . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

12 to 16

9 to 12

Load-apportioning valve-to-axle beam link rod nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

21 to 28

15 to 21

Modulator pivot and adjusting clamp bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

22 to 28

16 to 21

Modulator drivebelt cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8 to 12

6 to 9

Roadwheel nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

70 to 110

52 to 74

*Applies to all models except Courier. No figures are quoted by the manufacturers for Courier models.

9•2 Braking system

2.3b . . . unscrew the bolts then withdraw

the caliper from the anchor bracket

2.3a Remove the rubber blanking plugs for

access to the caliper mounting bolts . . .

2.2 Prise out the caliper support spring

with a screwdriver

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

4 Withdraw the pads from the caliper piston
housing or anchor bracket. The outer pad will
normally remain in position in the anchor
bracket, but the inner pad will stay attached to
the piston in the caliper, and may need to be
carefully prised free. If the old pads are to be
refitted, ensure that they are identified so that
they can be returned to their original
positions.
5 Brush the dust and dirt from the caliper and
piston, but do not inhale it, as it is a health
hazard. Inspect the dust cover around the
piston for damage and for evidence of fluid
leaks, which if found will necessitate caliper
overhaul as described in Section 3.
6 If new brake pads are to be fitted, the
caliper piston will need to be pushed back
into its housing, to allow for the extra pad
thickness - use a C-clamp to do this. Note
that, as the piston is pressed back into the
bore, it will displace the fluid in the system,
causing the fluid level in the brake master
cylinder reservoir to rise and possibly
overflow. To avoid this possibility, a small
quantity of fluid should be removed from the
reservoir. If any brake fluid is spilt onto the
bodywork, hoses or adjacent components in
the engine compartment, wipe it clean without
delay.

7 Prior to refitting, check that the pads and
the disc are clean. Where new pads are to be
installed, peel the protective backing paper
from them. If the old pads are to be refitted,
ensure that they are correctly located as
noted during their removal.
8 Locate the inner and outer brake pad into
position in the caliper. Relocate the caliper
into position on the anchor bracket, and insert
the mounting bolts.
9 Tighten the mounting bolts to the specified
torque, and refit the blanking plugs. Relocate
the caliper support spring.
10 Repeat the procedure on the opposite
front brake.

11 Before lowering the vehicle, check that
the fluid level in the brake master cylinder
reservoir is up to the “Maximum level” mark,
and top-up with the specified fluid type if
required (see “Weekly Checks”). Depress the
brake pedal a few times to position the pads
against the disc, then recheck the fluid level in
the reservoir and further top-up if necessary.
12 Refit the roadwheels, then lower the
vehicle to the ground. Tighten the roadwheel
retaining nuts to the specified torque.
13 To allow the new brake pads to bed-in
and reach full efficiency, a running-in period of
approximately 100 miles or so should be
observed before hard use and heavy braking.

Front brake caliper - removal,
overhaul and refitting

Note: Before starting work, refer to the
warning at the beginning of Section 13
concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid, and
to the warning at the beginning of Section 2
concerning the dangers of asbestos dust.

Removal

1 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove
the front roadwheels.
2 Fit a brake hose clamp to the flexible brake
hose leading to the front brake caliper. This
will minimise brake fluid loss during
subsequent operations.
3 Loosen by half a turn, the union on the
caliper end of the flexible brake hose.
4 Remove the front brake pads as described
in Section 2.
5 Support the caliper in one hand, and
prevent the brake hose from turning with a
spanner in the other hand. Unscrew the
caliper from the hose, making sure that the
hose is not twisted unduly or strained (see
illustration). Once the caliper is detached,
cover or plug the open hydraulic unions to
keep them clean.
6 If required, the caliper anchor bracket can
be unbolted and removed from the spindle
carrier (see illustration).

Overhaul

7 With the caliper on the bench, wipe away all
traces of dust and dirt, but avoid inhaling the
dust, as it is a health hazard.
8 Remove the piston from its bore by
applying low air pressure (from a foot pump,
for example) into the caliper hydraulic fluid
hose port. In the event of a high-pressure air
hose being used, keep the pressure as low as
possible, to enable the piston to be extracted,
but to avoid the piston being ejected too
quickly and being damaged. Position a
suitable piece of wood between the caliper
frame and the piston to prevent this
possibility. Any fluid remaining in the caliper
will probably be ejected with the piston.
9 Using a suitable hooked tool, carefully extract
the dust cover from its groove in the piston
and the seal from its groove in the caliper bore,
but take care not to scratch or damage the
piston and/or the bore in the caliper.
10 Clean all the parts in methylated spirit or
clean brake fluid, and wipe dry using a clean
lint-free cloth (see illustration). Inspect the
piston and caliper bore for signs of damage,
scuffing or corrosion. If these conditions are
evident, renew the caliper body assembly.
11 If the components are in satisfactory
condition, a repair kit which includes a new
seal and dust cover must be obtained.
12 Lubricate the piston bore in the caliper
and the seal with clean brake fluid. Carefully
fit the seal in the caliper bore, using fingers
only (no tools) to manipulate it into position in
its groove. When in position, check that it is
not distorted or twisted.
13 Locate the dust cover over the piston so
that its inner diameter is engaged in the piston
groove. Smear the area behind the piston
groove with the special lubricating grease
supplied in the repair kit, then insert the piston
into the caliper. Push the piston into position in
the bore, and simultaneously press the dust
cover into the piston housing so that it is seated
correctly. Take particular care not to distort or
damage the seal or cover as they are fitted.

Refitting

14 If the anchor bracket was removed, fit it
into position on the spindle carrier, and tighten
the retaining bolts to the specified torque.

Braking system 9•3

3.10 Brake caliper and piston components

A Dust cover

C Piston

B Piston seal

D Brake caliper

3.6 Undoing a brake caliper anchor

bracket bolt

3.5 Hold the brake hose with a spanner

and unscrew the caliper from the hose

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

An ideal way to remove fluid
from the master cylinder
reservoir is to use a clean
syringe or an old poultry
baster.

15 Unplug the hydraulic hose, and check that
the unions are clean. Reconnect the caliper to
the hose so that the hose is not twisted or
strained. The hose union connection can be
fully tightened when the caliper is refitted.
16 Refit the brake pads as described in
Section 2.
17 The brake hydraulic hose can now be fully
tightened. When secured, turn the steering
from lock-to-lock to ensure that the hose
does not foul on the wheel housing or
suspension components.
18 Bleed the brake hydraulic system as
described in Section 13 or 14 according to
type. Providing suitable precautions were
taken to minimise loss of fluid, it should only
be necessary to bleed the relevant front
brake.
19 Refit the roadwheel, lower the vehicle to
the ground, then tighten the wheel nuts to the
specified torque.

Front brake disc - inspection,
removal and refitting

Note: Before starting work, refer to the
warning at the beginning of Section 2
concerning the dangers of asbestos dust.

Inspection

Note: If a disc requires renewal, BOTH front
discs should be renewed or reground at the
same time to ensure even and consistent
braking. New brake pads should also be fitted.
1 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove
the appropriate front roadwheel.
2 Temporarily refit two of the wheel nuts to
diagonally-opposite studs, with the flat sides
of the nuts against the disc. Tighten the nuts
progressively, to hold the disc firmly.
3 Scrape any corrosion from the disc. Rotate
the disc, and examine it for deep scoring,
grooving or cracks. Using a micrometer,
measure the thickness of the disc in several
places. Light wear and scoring is normal, but
if excessive, the disc should be removed, and
either reground by a specialist, or renewed. If

regrinding is undertaken, at least the minimum
thickness must be maintained. Obviously, if
the disc is cracked, it must be renewed.
4 Using a dial gauge, check that the disc run-
out, measured at a point 10.0 mm from the
outer edge of the disc, does not exceed the
limit given in the Specifications. To do this, fix
the measuring equipment, and rotate the disc,
noting the variation in measurement as the
disc is rotated (see illustration). The
difference between the minimum and
maximum measurements recorded is the disc
run-out.

5 If the run-out is greater than the specified
amount, check for variations of the disc
thickness as follows. Mark the disc at eight
positions 45° apart, then using a micrometer,
measure the disc thickness at the eight
positions, 15.0 mm in from the outer edge. If
the variation between the minimum and
maximum readings is greater than the
specified amount, the disc should be
renewed.

Removal

6 Remove the caliper and its anchor bracket
with reference to Section 3, but do not
disconnect the hydraulic brake hose.
Suspend the caliper assembly from the front
suspension coil spring, taking care to avoid
straining the brake hose.
7 Remove the wheel nuts which were
temporarily refitted in paragraph 2.
8 Unscrew the screw securing the disc to the
hub, and withdraw the disc (see
illustrations). If it is tight, lightly tap its rear
face with a hide or plastic mallet.

Refitting

9 Refit the disc in a reversal of the removal
sequence. If new discs are being fitted, first

remove their protective coating. Ensure
complete cleanliness of the hub and disc
mating faces and tighten the screw securely.
10 Refit the caliper/anchor bracket with
reference to Section 3.
11 Refit the roadwheel, lower the vehicle to
the ground, and tighten the wheel nuts to the
specified torque.

Rear brake drum - removal,
inspection and refitting

Note: Before starting work, refer to the
warning at the beginning of Section 6
concerning the dangers of asbestos dust.

Removal

1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove
the appropriate rear roadwheel, and release
the handbrake.
2 Undo the four bolts securing the drum/hub
and stub axle assembly to the rear axle
flange, then withdraw the drum/hub from the
axle. If the brake drum is stuck on the shoes,
remove the rubber access plug from the rear
of the brake backplate, and release the
automatic brake adjuster by levering the
release catch on the adjuster pawl through the
backplate (see illustration).
3 With the brake drum removed, brush or
wipe the dust from the drum, brake shoes,

9•4 Braking system

5.2 Removing the rubber access plug from

the rear of the brake backplate

4.8b . . . and remove the disc from the hub

4.8a Extract the brake disc securing

screw . . .

4.4 Checking brake disc run-out using a

dial gauge

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

If a dial gauge is not
available, check the run-out
by positioning a fixed
pointer near the outer edge,

in contact with the disc face. Rotate
the disc and measure the maximum
displacement of the pointer with feeler
blades.

Content .. 40 41 42 43 ..