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Ford Fiesta (1989-1995). Instruction - part 38

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

General

System type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

12 volt, negative earth

Battery

Rating - Cold cranking/Reserve capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

270 A/50 RC, 360 A/60 RC, 500 A/70 RC, 590 A/90 RC or
650 A/130 RC

Charge condition:
Poor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

12.5 volts

Normal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

12.6 volts

Good . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

12.7 volts

Alternator

Make/type:
Bosch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

K1-55A, K1-70A, KC-70A or KC-90A

Magneti-Marelli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

A127/55 or 127/70

Mitsubishi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

A5T or A002T

Output (nominal at 13.5 volts with engine speed of 6000 rpm) . . . . . . .

55, 70 or 90 amps

Regulating voltage at 4000 rpm engine speed and 3 to 7 amp load . . .

14.0 to 14.6 volts

Minimum brush length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

5.0 mm

Starter motor

Make/type:
Bosch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

DM, DW or EV

Magneti-Marelli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

M79 or M80R

Nippondenso . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

No type numbers given

Minimum brush length:
Bosch and Magneti-Marelli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8.0 mm

Nippondenso . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9.0 mm

Torque wrench settings

lbf ft

Alternator mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Alternator adjustment bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Alternator adjustment centre lockbolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Adjuster link-to-mounting bracket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Alternator pulley nut:
With key . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Without key . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Starter motor mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Starter motor support bracket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Chapter 5 Part A:
Starting and charging systems

Alternator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Alternator brushes and voltage regulator - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Battery - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Battery - testing and charging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Battery, bulbs and fuses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See “Weekly Checks”

Charging system - testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Electrical fault finding - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

General information, precautions and battery disconnection . . . . . .

Starter motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Starter motor - testing and overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Starting system - testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

5A•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional

Degrees of difficulty

General information,
precautions and battery
disconnection

General information

The engine electrical system consists

mainly of the charging and starting systems.
Because of their engine-related functions,
these components are covered separately
from the body electrical devices such as the
lights, instruments, etc (which are covered in
Chapter 12). Information on the ignition
system is covered in Part B of this Chapter.

The electrical system is of the 12-volt

negative earth type.

The battery is of the low maintenance or

“maintenance-free” (sealed for life) type and is
charged by the alternator, which is belt-driven
from the crankshaft pulley.

The starter motor is of the pre-engaged

type incorporating an integral solenoid. On
starting, the solenoid moves the drive pinion
into engagement with the flywheel ring gear
before the starter motor is energised. Once
the engine has started, a one-way clutch
prevents the motor armature being driven by
the engine until the pinion disengages from
the flywheel.

Precautions

Further details of the various systems are

given in the relevant Sections of this Chapter.
While some repair procedures are given, the
usual course of action is to renew the
component concerned. The owner whose
interest extends beyond mere component
renewal should obtain a copy of the
“Automobile Electrical & Electronic Systems
Instruction”, available from the publishers of this
instruction.

It is necessary to take extra care when

working on the electrical system to avoid
damage to semi-conductor devices (diodes
and transistors), and to avoid the risk of
personal injury. In addition to the precautions
given in “Safety first!” at the beginning of this
instruction, observe the following when working
on the system:

Always remove rings, watches, etc before

working on the electrical system. Even with
the battery disconnected, capacitive
discharge could occur if a component’s live
terminal is earthed through a metal object.
This could cause a shock or nasty burn.

Do not reverse the battery connections.

Components such as the alternator, electronic
control units, or any other components having
semi-conductor circuitry could be irreparably
damaged.

If the engine is being started using jump

leads and a slave battery, connect the
batteries positive-to-positive and negative-to-
negative (see “Jump starting”). This also
applies when connecting a battery charger.

Never disconnect the battery terminals, the

alternator, any electrical wiring or any test

instruments when the engine is running.

Do not allow the engine to turn the

alternator when the alternator is not
connected.

Never “test” for alternator output by

“flashing” the output lead to earth.

Never use an ohmmeter of the type

incorporating a hand-cranked generator for
circuit or continuity testing.
Always ensure that the battery negative lead
is disconnected when working on the
electrical system.

Before using electric-arc welding

equipment on the car, disconnect the battery,
alternator and components such as the fuel
injection/ignition electronic control unit to
protect them from the risk of damage.

Battery disconnection

Several systems fitted to the vehicle require

battery power to be available at all times, either
to ensure that their continued operation (such as
the clock) or to maintain control unit memories
(such as that in the engine management
system’s ECU) which would be wiped if the
battery were to be disconnected. Whenever the
battery is to be disconnected therefore, first note
the following, to ensure that there are no
unforeseen consequences of this action:

a) First, on any vehicle with central locking, it

is a wise precaution to remove the key
from the ignition, and to keep it with you,
so that it does not get locked in, if the
central locking should engage accidentally
when the battery is reconnected.

b) On cars equipped with an engine

management system, the system’s ECU will
lose the information stored in its memory -
referred to by Ford as the “KAM” (Keep-
Alive Memory) - when the battery is
disconnected. This includes idling and
operating values, and any fault codes
detected - in the case of the fault codes, if
it is thought likely that the system has
developed a fault for which the
corresponding code has been logged, the
vehicle must be taken to a Ford dealer for
the codes to be read, using the special
diagnostic equipment necessary for this.
Whenever the battery is disconnected, the
information relating to idle speed control
and other operating values will have to be
re-programmed into the unit’s memory.
The ECU does this by itself, but until then,
there may be surging, hesitation, erratic idle
and a generally inferior level of
performance. To allow the ECU to relearn
these values, start the engine and run it as
close to idle speed as possible until it
reaches its normal operating temperature,
then run it for approximately two minutes at
1200 rpm. Next, drive the vehicle as far as
necessary - approximately 5 miles of varied
driving conditions is usually sufficient - to
complete the relearning process.

c) If the battery is disconnected while the

alarm system is armed or activated, the
alarm will remain in the same state when

the battery is reconnected. The same
applies to the engine immobiliser system
(where fitted).

d) If a Ford “Keycode” audio unit is fitted,

and the unit and/or the battery is
disconnected, the unit will not function
again on reconnection until the correct
security code is entered. Details of this
procedure, which varies according to the
unit and model year, are given in the
“Ford Audio Systems Operating Guide”
supplied with the vehicle when new, with
the code itself being given in a “Radio
Passport” and/or a “Keycode Label” at
the same time. Ensure you have the
correct code before you disconnect the
battery. For obvious security reasons, the
procedure is not given in this instruction. If
you do not have the code or details of the
correct procedure, but can supply proof
of ownership and a legitimate reason for
wanting this information, the vehicle’s
selling dealer may be able to help.

Devices known as “memory-savers” (or

“code-savers”) can be used to avoid some of
the above problems. Precise details vary
according to the device used. Typically, it is
plugged into the cigarette lighter, and is
connected by its own wires to a spare battery;
the vehicle’s own battery is then disconnected
from the electrical system, leaving the
“memory-saver” to pass sufficient current to
maintain audio unit security codes and ECU
memory values, and also to run permanently-
live circuits such as the clock, all the while
isolating the battery in the event of a short-
circuit occurring while work is carried out.

Warning: Some of these devices
allow a considerable amount of
current to pass, which can mean
that many of the vehicle’s

systems are still operational when the
main battery is disconnected. If a
“memory-saver” is used, ensure that the
circuit concerned is actually “dead” before
carrying out any work on it!

Electrical fault finding -
general information

Refer to Chapter 12.

Battery -
testing and charging

Standard and low maintenance
battery - testing

1 If the vehicle covers a small annual mileage,
it is worthwhile checking the specific gravity
of the electrolyte every three months to
determine the state of charge of the battery.
Use a hydrometer to make the check and
compare the results with the following table.

5A•2 Starting and charging systems

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Ambient

temperature

above

below

25°C (77°F)

Fully-charged

1.210 to 1.230 1.270 to 1.290

70% charged

1.170 to 1.190 1.230 to 1.250

Fully-discharged 1.050 to 1.070 1.110 to 1.130

Note that the specific gravity readings

assume an electrolyte temperature of
15°C (60°F); for every 10°C (18°F) below 15°C
(60°F) subtract 0.007. For every 10°C (18°F)
above 15°C (60°F) add 0.007.
2 If the battery condition is suspect, first
check the specific gravity of electrolyte in
each cell. A variation of 0.040 or more
between any cells indicates loss of electrolyte
or deterioration of the internal plates.
3 If the specific gravity variation is 0.040 or
more, the battery should be renewed. If the
cell variation is satisfactory but the battery is
discharged, it should be charged as
described later in this Section.

Maintenance-free battery -
testing

4 In cases where a “sealed for life”
maintenance-free battery is fitted, topping-up
and testing of the electrolyte in each cell is not
possible. The condition of the battery can
therefore only be tested using a battery
condition indicator or a voltmeter.
5 If testing the battery using a voltmeter,
connect the voltmeter across the battery and
compare the result with those given in the
Specifications under “charge condition”. The
test is only accurate if the battery has not
been subjected to any kind of charge for the
previous six hours. If this is not the case,
switch on the headlights for 30 seconds, then
wait four to five minutes before testing the
battery after switching off the headlights. All
other electrical circuits must be switched off,
so check that the doors and tailgate are fully
shut when making the test.
6 If the voltage reading is less than 12.2 volts,
then the battery is discharged, whilst a
reading of 12.2 to 12.4 volts indicates a
partially discharged condition.
7 If the battery is to be charged, remove it
from the vehicle (Section 4) and charge it as
described later in this Section.

Standard and low maintenance
battery - charging

Note: The following is intended as a guide
only. Always refer to the manufacturer’s
recommendations (often printed on a label
attached to the battery) before charging a
battery.
8 Charge the battery at a rate of 3.5 to
4 amps and continue to charge the battery at
this rate until no further rise in specific gravity
is noted over a four hour period.
9 Alternatively, a trickle charger charging at
the rate of 1.5 amps can safely be used
overnight.
10 Specially rapid “boost” charges which are
claimed to restore the power of the battery in

1 to 2 hours are not recommended, as they
can cause serious damage to the battery
plates through overheating.
11 While charging the battery, note that the
temperature of the electrolyte should never
exceed 37.8°C (100°F).

Maintenance-free battery -
charging

Note: The following is intended as a guide
only. Always refer to the manufacturer’s
recommendations (often printed on a label
attached to the battery) before charging a
battery.
12 This battery type takes considerably
longer to fully recharge than the standard
type, the time taken being dependent on the
extent of discharge, but it can take anything
up to three days.
13 A constant voltage type charger is
required, to be set, when connected, to 13.9
to 14.9 volts with a charger current below
25 amps. Using this method, the battery
should be usable within three hours, giving a
voltage reading of 12.5 volts, but this is for a
partially discharged battery and, as
mentioned, full charging can take
considerably longer.
14 If the battery is to be charged from a fully
discharged state (condition reading less than
12.2 volts), have it recharged by your Ford
dealer or local automotive electrician, as the
charge rate is higher and constant supervision
during charging is necessary.

Battery -
removal and refitting

Note: Refer to the precautions in Section 1
before starting work.

Removal

1 The battery is located forward on the left-
hand side of the engine compartment, on a
platform welded to the vehicle structure.
2 Undo the retaining nut, then detach the
earth leads from the stud of the battery
negative (earth) terminal post. This is the
terminal to disconnect before working on, or
disconnecting, any electrical component on
the vehicle.
3 Pivot up the plastic cover from the positive
terminal, then unscrew the positive lead
retaining nut on the terminal. Detach the
positive lead from the terminal.
4 Release the clamp securing the battery to
its platform and remove it. Lift the battery
from its location, keeping it in an upright
position to avoid the possibility of corrosive
electrolyte spilling onto the paintwork.
5 Clean the battery terminal posts, clamps
and the battery casing. If the bulkhead is
rusted as a result of battery acid spilling onto
it, clean it thoroughly and re-paint with
reference to Chapter 1.

6 If you are renewing the battery, make sure
that you get one that’s identical, with the
same dimensions, amperage rating, cold
cranking rating, etc. Dispose of the old battery
in a responsible fashion. Most local authorities
have facilities for the collection and disposal
of such items - batteries contain sulphuric
acid and lead, and should not be simply
thrown out with the household rubbish!

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Smear the
battery terminals with a petroleum-based jelly
prior to reconnecting. Always connect the
positive terminal clamp first and the negative
terminal clamp last.

Charging system - testing

Note: Refer to the precautions in Section 1
before starting work.
1 If the ignition warning light fails to
illuminate when the ignition is switched on,
first check the alternator wiring connections
for security. If satisfactory, check that the
warning light bulb has not blown, and that
the bulbholder is secure in its location in the
instrument panel. If the light still fails to
illuminate, check the continuity of the
warning light feed wire from the alternator to
the bulbholder. If all is satisfactory, the
alternator is at fault and should be renewed
or taken to an auto-electrician for testing and
repair.
2 If the ignition warning light illuminates when
the engine is running, stop the engine and
check that the drivebelt is correctly tensioned
(see Chapter 1) and that the alternator
connections are secure. If all is so far
satisfactory, have the alternator checked by
an auto-electrician for testing and repair.
3 If the alternator output is suspect even
though the warning light functions correctly,
the regulated voltage may be checked as
follows.
4 Connect a voltmeter across the battery
terminals and start the engine.
5 Increase the engine speed until the
voltmeter reading remains steady; the
reading should be approximately 13.5 to
14.6 volts.
6 Switch on as many electrical accessories
(eg, the headlights, heated rear window and
heater blower) as possible, and check that the
alternator maintains the regulated voltage at
around 13 to 14 volts.
7 If the regulated voltage is not as stated, the
fault may be due to worn brushes, weak brush
springs, a faulty voltage regulator, a faulty
diode, a severed phase winding or worn or
damaged slip rings. The alternator should be
renewed or taken to an auto-electrician for
testing and repair.

Starting and charging systems 5A•3

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Alternator -
removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Section 1).
2 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support”).
3 Where applicable, undo the retaining bolts
and remove the drivebelt splash guard (see
illustration).
4 On models with power steering and a
separate drivebelt, remove the auxiliary
(power steering pump) drivebelt as described
in Chapter 1.

Alternator with instruction adjustment
drivebelt

5 On models fitted with a sliding arm type
adjuster strap, unscrew and remove the top
(adjuster) bolt from the strap (see
illustration).
6 On models fitted with a “rack-and-pinion”
type adjuster, unscrew and remove the
central (locking) bolt whilst, at the same time,
loosening the (adjuster) nut (see illustration).
7 Loosen off, but do not yet remove,

the lower mounting bolts, pivot the
alternator inwards towards the engine to
slacken the tension of the drivebelt, then
disengage the drivebelt from the pulleys and
remove it.
8 Where applicable, detach and remove the
alternator splash cover/heat shield (see
illustration).
9 Where applicable, detach and remove the
phase terminal and the splash cover.
10 Supporting the weight of the alternator
from underneath, unscrew and remove the
mounting bolts. Lower the alternator; noting
the connections, detach the wiring and
remove the alternator from the vehicle (see
illustration).

Alternator with automatic adjustment
drivebelt

11 Remove the heatshield (if fitted) and
disconnect the alternator wiring.
12 Fit a ring spanner onto the drivebelt
tensioner, and rotate it clockwise to loosen off
the tension from the drivebelt (see
illustration). Note the routing of the drivebelt,
then disengage the belt from the pulleys and
remove it.
13 On pre-1994 model year Zetec engines,
disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring multi-
plug, then undo the two nuts and separate the
exhaust downpipe from the manifold. Support

the downpipe to avoid straining the exhaust
system mountings.
14 On all models, unscrew the alternator
upper mounting bolts/nuts and disconnect the
alternator wiring. Unscrew the lower
bolts/nuts and remove the alternator from the
engine. On pre-1994 Zetec engines, it will be
necessary to de-tension the drivebelt
tensioner to provide clearance for removal of
the upper mounting bolt nut.

Refitting

15 Refit in the reverse order of removal. Refit
the drivebelt, and ensure that it is correctly re-
routed around the pulleys. Adjust the tension
of the drivebelt (according to type) as
described in Chapter 1.

Alternator brushes and
voltage regulator - renewal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Section 1).
2 Remove the alternator from the vehicle as
described in the previous Section.

Bosch

3 Remove the two screws securing the
combined brush box/regulator unit, and

5A•4 Starting and charging systems

6.12 Automatic drivebelt tensioner

Turn tensioner clockwise to release drivebelt

tension

6.10 Wiring loom routing on rear of

alternator (CVH engine)

6.8 Removing the splash cover from the

inner end of the alternator

6.6 Rack-and-pinion type drivebelt

adjuster

A Adjuster arm

C Central (locking) bolt

B Pinion (adjuster) nut

6.5 Alternator sliding arm type adjuster

strap

A Adjuster bolt
B Adjuster bracket to engine bolt

6.3 Removing the drivebelt splash guard

(where fitted)

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Content .. 36 37 38 39 ..