Ford Fiesta (1989-1995). Instruction - part 23

Plastigauge to the scale printed on the
Plastigauge envelope, to obtain the running
clearance (see illustration 17.15). Compare it
to the Specifications, to make sure the
clearance is correct.
14 If the clearance is not as specified, seek
the advice of a Ford dealer or similar engine
reconditioning specialist - if the crankshaft
journals are in good condition it may be
possible simply to renew the shells to achieve
the correct clearance. If this is not possible,
the crankshaft must be reground by a
specialist, who can also supply the necessary
undersized shells. First though, make sure
that no dirt or oil was trapped between the
bearing shells and the connecting rod or cap
when the clearance was measured. Also,
recheck the crankpin diameter. If the
Plastigauge was wider at one end than the
other, the crankpin journal may be tapered.
15 Carefully scrape all traces of the
Plastigauge material off the journal and the
bearing surface. Be very careful not to scratch
the bearing - use your fingernail or the edge of
a credit card.

Final piston/connecting rod
refitting

16 Make sure the bearing surfaces are
perfectly clean, then apply a uniform layer of
clean molybdenum disulphide-based grease,
engine assembly lubricant, or clean engine oil,
to both of them. You’ll have to push the piston
into the cylinder to expose the bearing surface
of the shell in the connecting rod.
17 Slide the connecting rod back into place
on the crankpin (big-end) journal, refit the big-
end bearing cap, and then tighten the bolts as
described above.
18 Repeat the entire procedure for the
remaining piston/connecting rod assemblies.
19 The important points to remember are:
a)

Keep the backs of the bearing shells and
the recesses of the connecting rods and
caps perfectly clean when assembling
them.

b)

Make sure you have the correct
piston/rod assembly for each cylinder -
use the etched cylinder numbers to
identify the front-facing side of both the
rod and its cap.

c)

The arrow on the piston crown must face
the timing belt/chain end of the engine.

d)

Lubricate the cylinder bores with clean
engine oil.

e)

Lubricate the bearing surfaces when
refitting the big-end bearing caps after the
running clearance has been checked.

20 After all the piston/connecting rod
assemblies have been properly installed,
rotate the crankshaft a number of times by
hand, to check for any obvious binding.
21 On HCS engines, if the oil pick-up pipe
and strainer was removed, this is a good time
to refit it. First clean the joint area, then coat
the area indicated with the specified activator
(available from Ford dealers) (see
illustration). Wait for a period of ten minutes,
then smear the shaded area with the specified
adhesive and immediately press the inlet pipe
into position in the crankcase.

19 Engine - initial start-up after

overhaul

1

1 With the engine refitted in the vehicle,
double-check the engine oil and coolant
levels. Make a final check that everything has
been reconnected, and that there are no tools
or rags left in the engine compartment.
2 With the spark plugs removed and the
ignition system disabled by unplugging the
ignition coil’s electrical connector, remove the
fuel pump fuse (fuel injection engines) to
disconnect the fuel pump (see Chapter 12).
Turn the engine on the starter until the oil
pressure warning light goes out.
3 Refit the spark plugs, and connect all the
spark plug (HT) leads (Chapter 1). Reconnect
the ignition coil. On fuel injection engines, refit

the fuel pump fuse, switch on the ignition and
listen for the fuel pump; it will run for a little
longer than usual, due to the lack of pressure
in the system.
4 Start the engine, noting that this also may
take a little longer than usual, due to the fuel
system components being empty.
5 While the engine is idling, check for fuel,
coolant and oil leaks. Don’t be alarmed if
there are some odd smells and smoke from
parts getting hot and burning off oil deposits.
If the hydraulic tappets (where applicable)
have been disturbed, some valve gear noise
may be heard at first; this should disappear as
the oil circulates fully around the engine, and
normal pressure is restored in the tappets.
6 Keep the engine idling until hot water is felt
circulating through the top hose, check that it
idles reasonably smoothly and at the usual
speed, then switch it off.
7 After a few minutes, recheck the oil and
coolant levels, and top-up as necessary
(Chapter 1).
8 If they were tightened as described, there is
no need to re-tighten the cylinder head bolts
once the engine has first run after reassembly
- in fact, Ford state that the bolts must not be
re-tightened.
9 If new components such as pistons, rings
or crankshaft bearings have been fitted, the
engine must be run-in for the first 500 miles
(800 km). Do not operate the engine at full-
throttle, or allow it to labour in any gear during
this period. It is recommended that the oil and
filter be changed at the end of this period.

Engine removal and overhaul procedures  2D•25

18.21  Oil inlet pipe refitting details on the HCS engine

A Area of sealant application - dimensions in mm
B Edge must be parallel with engine longitudinal axis

2D

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Torque wrench settings

Nm

lbf ft

Thermostat housing to cylinder head:

HCS engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

17 to 21

13 to 16

CVH engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9 to 12

7 to 9

PTE engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9

7

Zetec engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

17 to 21

13 to 16

Water outlet to thermostat housing (Zetec engines)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9 to 12

7 to 9

Water pump pulley  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10

7.5

Water pump retaining bolts:

HCS, CVH and PTE engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8

6

Zetec engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

18

13

Coolant temperature gauge sender  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6

4

Coolant temperature sensor:

HCS engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

23

17

CVH engines:

1.4 litre models  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

19

14

1.6 litre models  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

15

11

PTE engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

15

11

Zetec engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

15

11

Radiator mounting bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

20 to 27

15 to 20

Radiator cooling fan shroud retaining bolt  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3 to 5

2 to 4

Radiator cooling fan motor to shroud nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9 to 12

7 to 9

Automatic transmission fluid cooling pipe connections to radiator  . . . .

17 to 21

13 to 16

3•2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

1

General information and
precautions

Engine cooling system

The cooling system is of the pressurised

type consisting of a belt-driven pump,
aluminium crossflow radiator, expansion tank,
electric cooling fan and a thermostat. The
system functions as follows. Cold coolant in
the bottom of the radiator passes through the
bottom hose to the water pump, where it is
pumped around the cylinder block and head
passages. After cooling the cylinder bores,
combustion surfaces and valve seats, the
coolant reaches the underside of the
thermostat, which is initially closed. The
coolant passes through the heater and 
inlet manifold and is returned to the water
pump.

When the engine is cold, the coolant

circulates through the cylinder block, cylinder
head, heater and inlet manifold. When the
coolant reaches a predetermined tempera-
ture, the thermostat opens, and the coolant
then passes through the top hose to 
the radiator. As the coolant circulates 
through the radiator, it is cooled by the inrush
of air when the car is in forward motion.
Airflow is supplemented by the action of the
electric cooling fan when necessary. Upon
reaching the bottom of the radiator, the
coolant is now cooled, and the cycle is
repeated.

When the engine is at normal operating

temperature, the coolant expands, and some
of it is displaced into the expansion tank. This
coolant collects in the tank, and is returned to
the radiator when the system cools.

The electric cooling fan, mounted behind

the radiator, is controlled by a thermostatic

switch. At a predetermined coolant
temperature, the switch contacts close, thus
actuating the fan.

Heating/ventilation system

The heating system consists of a blower fan

and heater matrix (radiator) located in the
heater unit, with hoses connecting the heater
matrix to the engine cooling system. Hot
engine coolant is circulated through the
heater matrix. Air is forced through the matrix
by the three-speed fan, dispersing the heat
into the vehicle interior. Fresh air enters the
vehicle through the grille slats between the
windscreen and the rear edge of the bonnet,
and passes through to the heater casing.
Depending on the position of the heater slide
controls, which actuate cable-controlled flap
valves within the heater casing, the air is
distributed, either heated or unheated, via the
ducting to outlet vents. The main outlet vents
in the facia are adjustable. The airflow passes
through the passenger compartment to exit at
the rear of the vehicle.

Precautions

Warning: DO NOT attempt to
remove the expansion tank filler
cap, or to disturb any part of the
cooling system, while it or the

engine is hot, as there is a very great risk
of scalding. If the expansion tank filler cap
must be removed before the engine and
radiator have fully cooled down (even
though this is not recommended) the
pressure in the cooling system must first
be released. Cover the cap with a thick
layer of cloth, to avoid scalding, and slowly
unscrew the filler cap until a hissing sound
can be heard. When the hissing has
stopped, showing that pressure is
released, slowly unscrew the filler cap
further until it can be removed; if more
hissing sounds are heard, wait until they

have stopped before unscrewing the cap
completely. At all times, keep well away
from the filler opening.

Warning: Do not allow antifreeze
to come in contact with your
skin, or with the painted
surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off

spills immediately with plenty of water.
Never leave antifreeze lying around in an
open container, or in a puddle in the
driveway or on the garage floor. Children
and pets are attracted by its sweet smell,
but antifreeze can be fatal if ingested.

Warning: If the engine is hot, the
electric cooling fan may start
rotating even if the engine is not
running, so be careful to keep

hands, hair and loose clothing well clear
when working in the engine compartment.

2

Antifreeze - 
general information

Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1
of this Chapter before proceeding.

The cooling system should be filled with a

water/ethylene glycol-based antifreeze
solution, of a strength which will prevent
freezing down to at least -25ºC, or lower if the
local climate requires it. Antifreeze also
provides protection against corrosion, and
increases the coolant boiling point.

The cooling system should be maintained

according to the schedule described in
Chapter 1. If antifreeze is used that is not to
Ford’s specification, old or contaminated
coolant mixtures are likely to cause damage,
and encourage the formation of corrosion and
scale in the system. Use distilled water with the
antifreeze, if available - if not, be sure to use
only soft water. Clean rainwater is suitable.

Before adding antifreeze, check all hoses

and hose connections, because antifreeze
tends to leak through very small openings.
Engines don’t normally consume coolant, so if
the level falls regularly, find the cause and
correct it.

The exact mixture of antifreeze-to-water

which you should use depends on the relative
weather conditions. The mixture should
contain at least 40% antifreeze, but not more
than 70%. Consult the mixture ratio chart on
the antifreeze container before adding
coolant. Hydrometers are available at most
automotive accessory shops to test the
coolant. Use only good-quality ethylene-
glycol-based antifreeze which meets the
vehicle manufacturer’s specifications.

3

Cooling system hoses -
disconnection and renewal

1

Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1
of this Chapter before starting work.
1 If the checks described in Chapter 1 reveal
a faulty hose, it must be renewed as follows.
2 First drain the cooling system (see Chap-
ter 1); if the antifreeze is not due for renewal,
the drained coolant may be re-used, if it is
collected in a clean container.
3 To disconnect any hose, use a pair of pliers
to release the spring clamps (or a screwdriver
to slacken screw-type clamps), then move
them along the hose clear of the union.
Carefully work the hose off its stubs. The
hoses can be removed with relative ease
when new - on an older car, they may have
stuck.
4 If a hose proves stubborn, try to release it
by rotating it on its unions before attempting
to work it off. Gently prise the end of the hose
with a blunt instrument (such as a flat-bladed
screwdriver), but do not apply too much force,
and take care not to damage the pipe stubs or
hoses. Note in particular that the radiator hose
unions are fragile; do not use excessive force
when attempting to remove the hoses.

5 When refitting a hose, first slide the clamps
onto the hose, then work the hose onto its
unions.

6 Work each hose end fully onto its union,
then check that the hose is settled correctly
and is properly routed. Slide each clip along
the hose until it is behind the union flared end,
before tightening it securely.
7 Refill the system with coolant (see Chap-
ter 1).
8 Check carefully for leaks as soon as
possible after disturbing any part of the
cooling system.

4

Thermostat - 
removal, testing and refitting

1

Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1
of this Chapter before starting work.

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
3 Refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 4 and
remove the air cleaner or air inlet hoses,
according to engine type as necessary, to
gain access to the thermostat housing.

HCS, CVH and PTE engines

4 Loosen the clips, and disconnect the
radiator top hose, expansion tank hose and,
where applicable, the heater hose from the
thermostat housing (see illustrations).

5 Disconnect the thermostatic switch wire
multi-plug from the thermostat housing.
6 Unscrew the retaining bolts, and remove
the thermostat housing (see illustration).
7 Remove the gasket from the mating face of
the thermostat housing, then using suitable
pliers, compress the thermostat retaining clip
(where applicable) and remove it from the
housing. Extract the thermostat from 
the housing (noting its direction of fitting) and
where applicable, remove the O-ring seal (see
illustrations).

Zetec engines

8 Disconnect the expansion tank hose and

Cooling, heating and ventilation systems  3•3

4.4b  Disconnecting the expansion tank

top hose from the thermostat housing

(HCS engine). Radiator cooling fan thermal

switch (arrowed)

4.4a  Thermostat housing hose

attachments on the CVH engine

4.7b  Exploded view of thermostat and

housing (CVH and PTE engines)

A Sealing ring

C Retaining clip

B Thermostat

4.7a  Removing the gasket and thermostat

from an HCS engine

4.6  Removing the thermostat housing

from a CVH engine

3

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

If all else fails, cut the hose
with a sharp knife, then slit
it so that it can be peeled off
in two pieces. Although this

may prove expensive if the hose is
otherwise undamaged, it is preferable
to buying a new radiator.

If the hose is stiff, use a little
soapy water as a lubricant,
or soften the hose by
soaking it in hot water. Do

not use oil or grease, which may attack
the rubber.

the radiator top hose from the thermostat
housing’s water outlet (see illustration).
9 Unscrew the retaining bolts, and remove
the water outlet from the thermostat housing.
10 Withdraw the thermostat from the housing
noting the position of the air bleed valve, and
how the thermostat is installed (which end is
facing outwards) (see illustration).

Testing

General check

11 Before assuming the thermostat is to
blame for a cooling system problem, check
the coolant level, auxiliary drivebelt tension
and condition (see Chapter 1) and
temperature gauge operation.
12 If the engine seems to be taking a long
time to warm up (based on heater output or
temperature gauge operation), the thermostat
is probably stuck open. Renew the thermostat.
13 If the engine runs hot, use your hand to
check the temperature of the radiator top
hose. If the hose isn’t hot, but the engine is,
the thermostat is probably stuck closed,
preventing the coolant inside the engine from
escaping to the radiator - renew the
thermostat. 
Caution: Don’t drive the vehicle without a
thermostat. The lack of a thermostat will
slow warm-up time. The engine
management system’s ECU will then stay
in warm-up mode for longer than
necessary, causing emissions and fuel
economy to suffer.

14 If the radiator top hose is hot, it means
that the coolant is flowing and the thermostat
is open. Consult the “Fault finding” section at
the end of this instruction to assist in tracing
possible cooling system faults.

Thermostat test

15 If the thermostat remains in the open
position at room temperature, it is faulty, and
must be renewed as a matter of course.
16 To test it fully, suspend the (closed)
thermostat on a length of string in a container
of cold water, with a thermometer beside it;
ensure that neither touches the side of the
container (see illustration).
17 Heat the water, and check the temperature
at which the thermostat begins to open;
compare this value with that specified. It’s not
possible to check the fully-open temperature,
because this occurs above the boiling point of
water at normal atmospheric pressure. If the
temperature at which the thermostat began to
open was as specified, then it is most likely
that the thermostat is working properly at all
temperatures. Remove the thermostat, and
allow it to cool down; check that it closes fully.
18 If the thermostat does not open and close
as described, if it sticks in either position, or if
it does not open at the specified temperature,
it must be renewed.

Refitting

All models

19 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Clean
the mating surfaces carefully, and renew the

thermostat’s O-ring seal or housing gasket, as
applicable.
20 On Zetec engines, ensure that the
thermostat is fitted with its air bleed valve
uppermost.
21 Tighten the thermostat housing/water
outlet bolts to the specified torque.
22 Refill the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
23 Refit the air cleaner or air inlet components,
as applicable, if removed for access.
24 Start the engine and allow it to reach
normal operating temperature, then check for
leaks and proper thermostat operation.

5

Radiator electric cooling fan
assembly - testing, removal
and refitting

2

Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1
of this Chapter before starting work.

Testing

1 If it is suspected that the cooling fan is not
operating when high engine temperature
would normally require it to do so, first check
the relevant fuses and relays (see Chapter 12).
2 Detach the wiring multi-plug from the
thermostatic switch, which is located either in
the thermostat housing or at the right-hand end
of the radiator, next to the bottom hose (see
illustration). Using a suitable piece of wire,
bridge the two connections within the plug.
Switch the ignition on and check if the cooling
fan operates. If the fan now operates, the
thermostatic switch is at fault, and should be
renewed as described in Section 6. Remove the
bridging wire from the plug, and reconnect the
wiring connector to complete the test.
3 If the fan failed to operate in the previous
test, either the fan motor is at fault, or there is
a fault in the wiring loom (see Chapter 12 for
testing details).

Removal

All models except Turbo

4 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
5 Detach the wiring multi-plug from the fan
motor and unclip the wiring from the retaining
clips on the shroud (see illustration).

3•4 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

5.5  Disconnecting the multi-plug from the

radiator cooling fan motor

5.2  Radiator cooling fan thermostatic

switch location on CVH engine thermostat

housing

4.16  Testing the thermostat

4.10  Zetec engine thermostat removal

4.8  Disconnect the coolant hoses from the

water outlet on a Zetec engine

1595Ford Fiesta Remake